The one that is also called vitamin A was the star molecule of anti-aging cosmetics in the 90s. Destroyed by hyaluronic acid, anti-oxidants and peptides, criticized for its irritant side, retinol is making a comeback in better controlled care. And even sensitive skin can use it!
If cosmetology has left it aside for a while, especially following the arrival of hyaluronic acid, just as effective and without its side effects, retinol has remained for dermatologists the reference active ingredient for anti-aging. . Used in prescription in its medical form, retinoic acid (vitamin A acid) is for these skin specialists an essential asset, as explained by Dr. Laurence Walon, dermatologist in Brussels: “Retinol is for me one of the best anti-aging active ingredients complementary to the various treatments practiced in prevention, preparation and maintenance of the results obtained. Because, although it acts primarily on wrinkles, it improves skin texture and smoothness, makes it firmer, and it also attenuates pigment spots. ”
This is how retinol, a molecule recognized by professionals for its effectiveness, with 80 years of use and numerous scientific studies, is making a comeback.
Retinol is a powerful anti-aging
Like all vitamins, retinol is versatile. It acts at the same time on the surface, at the level of the epidermis and the dermis. On the surface, it has an exfoliating effect that smooths the skin texture, helps unclog pores and brings radiance. It stimulates cell renewal, which decreases with aging, and by reaction, causes a (slight) thickening of the epidermis. It also has a strong antioxidant role, acts on Langerhans cells, key cells in the skin’s immune defense, but also regulates melanocytes (cells that pigment the skin). It is therefore a good active regulator of dark spots and the uniformity of the complexion.
In the dermis, it stimulates the production of collagen and elastin, increases the level of hyaluronic acid and reduces the destruction of existing collagen. It therefore has positive effects on marked fine lines, but also on premature sun damage. “It is more effective on the damage caused by UV exposure than on strictly chronological aging”, specifies Dr. Pomarède. Which explains “that it is recommended rather to women over 40 years old who have little too much exposed to the sun and begin to undergo a little slackening, only to younger women “, adds Dr Philippe Deshayes, dermatologist.
What precautions should be taken ?
Retinol, because it has an exfoliating effect, refines and sensitizes the stratum corneum, best used in the evening, like fruit acids. For the same reasons, we apply sun care during the day. And since it is a powerful active, it is preferable in night care, when the skin is most receptive to repairing and anti-aging active ingredients and when its entire regeneration process is underway.
Lipophilic, it is often formulated in the form of an oil or a serum. And since it can be irritating, we recommend a gradual habituation, by applying it first every third evening, then every other evening, and finally, when the skin supports it well, every evening.
